Lumos Dual Laser Engraver from Wecreat: A Sort Of Review. Kinda.

Okay so this is like the third time I’ve started to write this review and each time I ended up with something I found entirely unsatisfactory so I’m going to start this all over again and keep going until I finish this sucker.

I’ve been having problems with this review not because of the Lumos itself, but because I don’t want this to be associated in any way, shape or form with the dozens and dozens of fake crap “reviews” I’ve seen for the Lumos since it was released a few months ago. I’ve sat through way too many of those so-called “reviews” and they are almost universally utterly horrible and completely and totally useless. I’m tempted to go off on a rant about these and maybe I will at the end of this or in a separate article. But I’m not going to waste your time with that now. You’re here to hopefully learn something useful about this thing.

I’m not going to do a typical review. I’m not going to repeat readily obtainable information about this thing. If you want to learn statistics and hear people gushing about how wonderful it is and all that just go look at the dozens of reviews on Youtube and elsewhere. Me? I’m going to talk about what it’s like actually using this thing in actual real world conditions.

So this is it down below. the Lumos from Wecreat (yes, that’s how they spell it) in all of its purple and orange glory. And for those of you who might be interested in actually buying one of these puppies, it sells for $1,200 or so. Ah, strike that. Looks like it’s down to $1,000 as of Nov. 12. That’s without accessories like the sliding table and the rotary tool which are extra cost options.

What makes this unit interesting is that it has two different lasers built into it. There is a more or less normal 10W blue diode laser for working with materials like wood, paper, some plastics, etc. But there is also a 3W infrared laser that lets it actually engrave metal. That’s the real reason I was interested in this purple beastie. I wanted to be able to engrave metal. And at the time I bought it, it was the only one on the market that had all of these features. X-Tool and a couple of others have brought out units that are comparable to this one now, though, so if you’re in the market for one of these do some shopping around.

Personally I think it’s a good looking little unit. Certainly the build quality and fit and finish seem to be excellent. The only visible plastic bit is the orange shield in the front. Everything else is solid, sturdy aluminium. The laser head is the circular unit with the handle attached at the top. It is packed separately and must be attached to the base unit but that takes only one bolt to accomplish and takes all of about 2 minutes. That’s the only assembly that is required. Basically you can put this thing together, plug in the power and USB cables, and be ready to go in about 5 minutes. Then just install the software from Wecreat’s website and you’re all set. You could be up and running with this unit in probably fifteen minutes from the time you open up the box and unpack it. This is a far cry from the first laser engraver I bought many years ago that arrived from China as a box of parts, with no instructions.

I won’t keep you in suspense. I’ve been using this thing for over a month now. And I’ve been using it hard. It’s cranked out about 150 challenge coins, several hundred drinks coasters, along with dozens of one-off specialty projects along with just goofing around with it, and it’s never missed a beat. I’m not your typical hobby craftsperson churning out the occasional birthday gift or Christmas ornament. I’ve been using this in a semi-production environment almost since the day I got it. There have been days where it’s been going non-stop for 6+ hours a day sometimes. And it’s worked pretty much exactly as advertised.

Does it have limitations? You bet. Does it have problems? Sure it does. And I’ll get to those. There is no such thing as the “perfect” laser engraver, after all. But this unit does exactly what it’s specified to do and it’s been doing it very well indeed.

First a bit of background. This is what is known as a galvo laser, and by its very nature that means it has both some very significant advantages as well as some equally significant limitations when it comes to functionality when compared to a gantry style laser like my Falcon.

The biggest advantage is speed. Galvo lasers are very, very fast when compared to gantry style lasers. Gantry lasers have the laser source itself mounted on a movable framework that is physically moved over the surface of the work material by belts, pulleys, stepper motors, etc. All of those mechanical gubbins having to move around seriously restricts the speed at which it can work.

Galvo lasers have a fixed laser source. It never moves. Instead there are tiny mirrors in the head that are moved to direct the path of the laser beam itself. Because the mirrors are very small and very low mass, they can be moved much, much faster. And that translates into getting projects done and out the door much, much faster as well. As anyone in business can tell you, time is money.

But that’s also the biggest problem with galvo lasers because that severely restricts the size of its working area. Where my Falcon has a working area of about 13 inches X 15 inches. the Lumos has a working area of only around 115 millimeters square, or about 4 inches.

The working area of the Lumos is only about 120mm x 120mm or around 4.5 or so inches square.

Now this isn’t as much of a problem as you might think. The vast majority of engraving jobs I do will fit quite comfortably into that working area. If I need to do something a lot bigger I can either use the sliding table, which expands the working area to around 120X420mm, or if I need to do something bigger still I can use the Falcon.

Speed is where this thing really shines. Let me show you with a short video if I can figure out how this upload thingie works…

Egads, it worked!

Now that engraving on a metal business card took about 30 seconds, all together. The exact same engraving using the Falcon took a good 3 minutes.

Since the video thingie seems to be working let me stick another one in here just for the heck of it. This one takes a little longer because it’s a more complex design but what the heck

I should perhaps point out that these videos are real time, not sped up. It’s really that fast.

(FYI: Those are black anodized aluminum business cards. They’re fun to mess with and they’re super cheap. I get 100 for about $9 on Amazon so I use them for experimenting and just messing around.)

This one above shows the infrared laser in action. Instead of just burning the black coating off the metal card it’s actually etching that design into the metal itself. It’s a bit hard to tell what it is because the video is shot through the shielding but that’s a cat watching Santa’s sleigh flying across the face of a full moon.

It’s that IR laser that made the Lumos interesting to me. That and its very high resolution. It’s the only laser in this price range that I know of that has dual laser sources built into it; a more or less standard 10W blue laser and a 3w IR laser. The standard laser works with the usual materials like wood, plastic, leather, etc. The IR laser has the ability to engrave metal.

If you saw the review I did of my Falcon laser you may remember that I used it to work with metal also. But that was different. The Falcon cannot actually engrave any kind of metal no matter what the hyped up advertising might make you think. It can discolor metal but it cannot actually engrave it. It can also be used for a kind of powder coating. A special material is applied to the metal and the laser’s heat causes the material to chemically bond with the metal to give a very durable result. But that’s not engraving as such. Engraving involves the actual removal of material from the surface of the metal.

I did about a dozen of these little metal Christmas gift boxes with various designs and wording. They’re just the right size for gift cards or small trinkets.

If you’re doing this laser engraving thing as a business, here’s a hint. You can pick up these boxes for about $0.50 each in quantity or even less if you shop around, and people will pay actual real money for these things with a nice bit of artwork engraved on ’em. Better still, take the whole show on the road, set up in a booth or table and do custom engraving on the spot for people. Takes only a minute or two to engrave a name or brief message on one of these.

That’s not just discolored metal, that’s actually engraved into the surface of the metal box.

One thing I’ve been doing for years now is I make a whole line of custom drinks coasters for a brewpub in West Allis. One side has pub’s logo, the other has a (hopefully) humorous cartoon or satirical item. Those dopy things have become ridiculously popular and when I send a new batch down there they’re usually gone in a few hours because the customers steal them. Which is just fine with me because the customers hopefully show them to friends and family and helps get the pub’s name out there and attract new customers. So I do stuff like, well, this, for example:

Nope, I don’t read a lot of manga and even if I did I wouldn’t let it influence my drawings. Nope, no sir… Yeah, right…

Yes, it’s an old joke. I used to steal borrow images from late 19th century and early 20th century public domain sources but I’ve been doing that less and less lately and doing my own because it’s hard to find appropriate images from copyright free sources to match a specific joke. They’re fun, easy to do, and the only difficult bit is the amount of time it takes. With the Falcon doing one of these would take 5 minutes or more. I could cut that down quite a bit but only by sacrificing the quality. With the Lumos it takes about 1/3 of the time or even less do do one of these.

I’m afraid that I’ve been picking on West Allis, the suburb of Milwaukee where the tavern is located, of late. I hope the town has a sense of humor because stuff like these pop up…

Yes, I am ashamed of myself. Anyway I’m showing you these because it would have been difficult or even impossible to do this with the Falcon. At least in any kind of reasonable amount of time. As nice as the Falcon is, it just isn’t fast enough, nor does it have high enough resolution to be able to do a decent job reproducing photos like these up there. Just for the heck of it I did the “vegetable queen” one on both the Falcon and the Lumos. On the Lumos it took about 3 minutes. On the Falcon? It took 10+ minutes. See why I’ve been using the Lumos so much since I got it?

The resolution of this laser is extremely impressive. Look at this test image I did on one of those black anodized business cards.

There’s no way the Falcon could achieve that high of a resolution. The width of its laser is just too wide.

Doing photos with this thing is a blast. It gives near photographic quality results on almost everything I’ve tried it with. Over there on the left is a photo of one of my cats that I took. I cut out the background and imported it into the Wecreat software. I found a bit of scrap cork laying around and lasered it onto that with the diode laser and you can see the results for yourself. The resolution of this thing, both the diode and the IR laser, continues to impress me.

Let’s look briefly at the sliding table. I use the optional sliding table for batch runs all the time. Below it’s set up for doing 4 coasters at a time.

I put 4 blank coasters on the table, start it up and it merrily chugs along for about 10 – 15 minutes doing all 4 of them. Then I reload more blanks into it and start it all over again. While it’s chugging along doing the batch I’m usually working on artwork for the next batch of coasters or some other project.

Installing it is about as simple as it gets. Over there on the left you see one of 2 “L” brackets that are included with the laser that screw down into the holes you see on the baseplate. Not only do they serve as makeshift guides to help place material on the bed, they are also used to anchor down the sliding table. The two brackets are screwed down to fit in the white painted line shown in the lower right corner, and in a second one in the upper left corner on the base. Then the sliding table has corresponding holes in its base. Just fit it down over the top of those knurled knobs, plug two cables into the back of the Lumos itself, and it’s ready to go. Takes all of two minutes to install it or remove it as needed.

I also use the sliding table with jigs I make myself (usually cutting them out of acrylic plastic or plywood on the Falcon) to hold small objects. or with guides clamped down to the edge of the table that I use for coasters. Below is a jig I cut from acrylic on the Falcon to do challenge coins 6 at a time.

I load 6 coins at a time into the jig, load the appropriate file and start it going. Engraving coins takes a long time though. Depending on how intricate the design is and how deep the engraving needs to be it can take well over an hour to do one side of all six coins. But since I’m working with non-flamable material I can just let it go while I do something else and I don’t need to actually be there the whole time.

The other optional tool you can get for this thing is the rotary tool and I have that too although I’ve only used it a couple of times.

Engraving things like cups, glasses, water bottles, etc. isn’t something I really do but I wanted to do a few items just to make sure it actually worked as advertised.

Unfortunately, unlike the sliding table which is extremely easy to install and use, the rotary is a pain in the neck. It has to be physically bolted to the base of the Lumos with 3 very small screws which you will immediately lose. I did. Fortunately there were extras included.

It does work well, however. I tried it just this afternoon using the old stainless steel water bottle I carry on the bike. The kit with the rotary tool includes a height adjustable rest with rollers to support the end of whatever it is you’re trying to laser which was absolutely necessary or the bottle slipped enough in the jaws of the tool to get out of position.

The blotch over the “u” in grouchy is from a defect in the surface of the bottle, not from some kind of glitch from the Lumos.

Once I had it set up it worked quite well. I had no issues with it. Basically it works just like any other rotary tool so if you’ve used one before with a different laser using this one isn’t going to be a big deal.

One thing you are supposed to be able to do is take the top off the sliding table, attach the rotary tool to it somehow, and then then clamp that whole conglomeration to the base of the Lumos and use it to making engravings up to 0ver 400mm long on lengthy round objects, with the rotary tool rotating as needed. and the sliding table moving the whole thing left to right as necessary. One of the advertising videos Wecreat has shows them engraving almost the entire length of the barrel of a baseball bat.

Now that’s a neat trick but me, being the 3rd laziest person in the state… Well I couldn’t work up enough ambition to go through all of the work of half dismantling the sliding table, attaching the rotary to it and then trying to test all of that. I’ll just take their word for it that it works and be done with it.

Overall the Lumos has been excellent. It does exactly what it’s advertised to do and it does it pretty darn well. I’m very pleased with it so far.

I want to talk specifically about metal engraving for a few minutes too. I’ve been using laser engravers for years, but I’ve only had diode lasers that couldn’t engrave metal before, so this was something entirely new to me.

Something like that metal box up there that I pictured doesn’t take very long, a few minutes at most. But if you want to do highly detailed, relatively deep engravings for an object that will have to endure a great deal of handling and wear, it is going to take a long, long time. Let me show you what I mean. Here’s a 30 second clip of it engraving a coin:

See what I mean? When I was doing those coins I’d load up 6 of them in the jig, start it going and then go do something else for an hour and a half or so. All those videos you see on Youtube of people doing deep, intricate engravings in just a few seconds? Sorry, just isn’t happening. Those videos are speeded up enormously. Until you get into lasers in the $4.000+ range you can plan on waiting a long, long time to do a deeply engraved, intricate design on something like a coin.

The other thing I want to talk about is that there has been a huge amount of hype with the Lumos and other IR laser engravers about being able to do color engravings on metal, usually showing you pictures like the one over there on the left. If you follow some of the “reviewers” and “creators” or whatever on Youtube, you’ve been led to believe it’s that it is wildly popular with customers, and that it is easy to do stuff like this. It isn’t. IMO it is mostly an interesting gimmick and I had a hell of a time trying to get it to work consistently.

I have gotten this to work and one of my successful experiments is up above. But I burned through a dozen or more of those stainless steel cards before I got results like that. And even that simple design took something like 20 minutes to crank out. More often than not, my attempts to get color turned out looking more like the image over there on the left. Lots of dull browns and grays.

And even more interesting is that these brushed stainless steel cards and a brushed stainless steel bottle opener I had laying around from another job were the only pieces of metal I was able to do this with. Every other attempt using brass, aluminum, copper, and even other pieces of stainless steel were complete failures.

Perhaps I’m doing it wrong, perhaps I don’t really understand how it works well enough to get decent results, but my experiments with getting color have not been encouraging.

And when they have worked the results were never as brilliant as the ones I’ve seen in the ads and reviews, and the process took so long that it wasn’t worth the effort. If you’re doing this as a hobby and aren’t under any kind of time pressure, hey, it’s fun to play with. But if you’re trying to crank out products for sale? The color effects aren’t as brilliant in real life as they appear in the videos. You need to put some kind of clear coat over the top or it will start to fade and even corrode (yes, even stainless steel will corrode over time). And even worse it takes so long to do that I don’t see how this would be cost effective for commercial production.

So let me sum this up. The Lumos is a great little laser. It’s fast, compact, does a nice job. The resolution is excellent. It’s much, much faster than my Falcon. And the price isn’t bad at all. I just saw that it’s down to around $1,000 now, $200 less than mine cost me.

There are definitely disadvantages to lasers of this type, however. There is the small size of the working area, for example. There is the issue of fires to deal with if you’re going to try to cut material with it. I’ll come to that in a minute. When engraving metal it can be very slow. But otherwise I like it a lot and it gets used here constantly.

The Problems

Does it have “issues”, as they say? Definitely.

Let’s talk about fires. Yes, actual, real fire. Whenever you’re using a laser on flammable materials like wood, paper, fiberboard, etc. there is always a danger of fire. This is especially true with galvo style lasers which lack the air assist capabilities that most modern gantry style lasers have.

When trying to cut flammable materials the Lumos can and will start things on fire. It has a built in fire detection system that will shut down the laser, but that’s all it can do, shut off the laser. The burning material will continue to burn until you put it out.

This isn’t the really the fault of the Lumos, it’s just the nature of the beast, as they say. With the Falcon, because it has air assist, I can hit a piece of plywood at full power to cut through it without much risk because the air assist prevents charring and blows out any fires. But that’s not the case with the Lumos. The only way I’ve found to reduce the risk of fire is to use lower power and multiple passes. While it can cut thin wood, etc. this is not the kind of laser you want if you’re going to be cutting a lot of flammable materials.

Sidenote: Smoke and fumes are always an issue with lasers. The smoke and fumes generated from using lasers with almost any material is dangerous and can be highly toxic. Plus, of course, it will set off every smoke detector in your house. The Lumos has a very powerful extraction fan that blows into a large flexible pipe that you can either shove out a window or attach to an extraction fan, like I do. Or you can feed it into a filtration system of some sort. But you absolutely have to do something to deal with the fumes. Unlike other lasers I’ve worked with, the extraction fan on the Lumos is powerful enough that it does a reasonably good job even with the cover open.

As long as I’m on the subject of safety I need to talk about the dangers of laser light to your eyes. Exposure to laser light or radiation can and will damage your eyes. Most of these modern lasers come with some sort of enclosure that has plastics that block dangerous levels of laser radiation. But in the case of the Lumos it is necessary to operate it with the shield raised up in order to use the sliding table or the rotary tool. So you are absolutely going to need eye protection. And unlike every other laser I’ve bought, the Lumos doesn’t come with any. No glasses, no goggles, nothing.

Unless you already have safety glasses, you’re going to need to go buy some if you’re going to use the Lumos with the shield up.

Other things… As I said before I don’t like how the rotary tool attaches to the frame. It bolts not to the actual frame of the Lumos but to the small removable plate that’s inset into the base. That means the rotary tool can be tippy, which is something you absolutely do not want. It’s also very awkward to try to get those fiddly little screws attached to the base. They really need to come up with a better way of attaching it.

My biggest complaint about the Lumos isn’t the hardware, though, it’s the Wecreat software that comes with it. The software has a lot going for it, especially if you’re a “member” or whatever they call it and the AI functions become active. (I suspect that they’re going to demand I pay some kind of subscription fee once my initial membership expires to keep the AI functions working. At this point I’m not sure if that’s going to be worth the expense or not.)

The AI functions are actually quite good. It can generate complete images based on whatever you type in, and it does a reasonably good job of it. The AI can help to “process” imported photos to help get better results as well.

The software does everything it needs to do, pretty much, but it is unnecessarily awkward to work with. Different functions and settings that should all be gathered into one place are scattered all over in different pop up windows and menus for no rational reason I can come up with.

The font search for the text tool doesn’t seem to work at all. I could type in the exact name of a font exactly as listed in the list, and it couldn’t find it. I’d have to scroll through an apparently endless list of fonts to find the one I wanted.

The materials settings were even more frustrating. You can bring up a list of materials and when selected it’s supposed to change the engraving/cutting settings to the ideal settings for that material. This is a common feature with the software that comes with most of these lasers these days. Only absolutely none of the recommended settings actually worked. None of them. I found myself suspecting they just copy and pasted the settings from a different one of their engravers and never bothered to see if they actually worked.

I ended up wasting a hell of a lot of material just experimenting to try to figure out the ideal settings for the materials I was using. If I went with what the software recommended, I’d get results that were so light they were almost invisible or, even worse, that literally started the material on fire.

Copy/paste of objects between different work spaces doesn’t work at all. Select an object in your currently active work space. Create a new work space and click “paste” and… nothing.

The most irritating thing I found with the software is that it doesn’t let you save your designs in any format other than Wecreat’s own proprietary format. You can work for hours designing a nice engraving, and then you can’t save it in a format that will work with a different laser. Even the Falcon from Crealty lets me export a design in .SVG format so it could be used elsewhere.

I’m hoping that a future version of the software fixes this. But at the moment anything that I design in the Lumos software can only be used with one of Wecreat’s lasers, it seems. Be aware of that if you do your own designs. If you only work in the Lumos’ software, you’re locked in. If you get another brand of laser or Wecreat goes out of business, all of the work you put in designing those engravings is going to be lost.

This isn’t a big deal for me because I do almost all of my design work in Photoshop or Adobe Illustrator. Then I export it to a .PNG or .SVG file and import that into the Wecreat software for actual use. But a lot of people, especially hobbyists, don’t have access to those tools and depend on the software that the laser comes with. If you use the Wecreat software to design engravings, you’re locked to the company. If the company goes out of business or if you want to switch to a different brand of laser, at the moment there seems to be no way to move your work over to a different machine.

Supposedly the Lumos is compatible with Lightburn, which is more or less the software package that most professionals and serious hobbyists use these days. I don’t have Lightburn and I’ve never felt a need to get it. I’m quite comfortable using the tools I already have to do basic design work and then import it into whatever software the laser I’m using comes with. However, if you’re planning on doing laser engraving for actual production work for a business, it is something you should look into.

And that’s about it. If I come up with anything interesting in the future while I’m working with this laser I’ll keep you informed.

Laser Engravers: Creality Falcon A1 Review.

So I want to talk about laser engravers, specifically this beastie down below, the Creality Falcon A1 10W diode laser engraver/cutter. It’s fairly new to the market and hasn’t been on general sale for very long, and except for a few “influencers” on Youtube who got pre-production models for testing or were given one of them for free right after they came out, there haven’t been any real, honest reviews of this thing by people who have actually bought one with their own money and are actually using it, and using it hard, in real world conditions. A lot of you who read this are hobbyists, crafters, woodworkers and the like who tag along here for the rare article that pops up about this kind of stuff, so let’s take a look at this thing.

If you’ve been reading grouchyfarmer for a while, you know I dabble in a lot of things like wood working, wood turning, photography, drawing and sketching, and, yes, laser engraving. The last time I talked about it was some time ago when I was running the LaserPecker. I was using it to crank out little novelty things and it was fun, but it was seriously limited in both size and power and eventually the jobs I had for it dwindled, I lost interest in it and put it up on the shelf.

But recently some people got in touch with me and wanted some stuff done; misc. artwork and some novelty items, and being a sucker, I said I’d look into it. I dug out the old Laserpecker and immediately realized that it was going to be woefully inadequate. I needed something that could handle engravings that were much larger than what the LP could do, and more importantly, I needed something that could actually cut material, which the LP couldn’t do at all. On top of that, the LP was getting tired. It was obvious that the laser’s power was diminishing from the few test runs I did. And even worse, it was slow. Dear lord it was slow. I’d forgotten just how painfully slow it could be. There are much newer, improved versions of the Lasterpecker on the market now, and I briefly looked at the newer versions of the LP and nearly had a heart attack when I saw the prices. The one model that did come close to doing what I needed to do was pushing $3,000 for heaven’s sake!

To make a long and boring story a bit less long (but still just as boring) I ended up with that gadget up there. And by my standards at least, it looked very nice indeed.

It had a generous working size of about 15″ by 12″, which was exactly what I needed. It also looked like it was reasonably fast, simple to use, and the previews I saw were pretty good. And the price wasn’t bad either, about $600. So I bought one and so far it’s been handling everything I’ve been throwing at it and I’m quite satisfied with it so far.

A big plus is that it comes completely assembled. A lot of these lasers, even some of the expensive ones, come basically as little more than a bunch of bags full of parts and screws, and you have to spend hours putting the stupid thing together. No. Just no. With the Falcon I just took it out of the box, removed the packing material, plugged in the computer, the power supply and the air pump, installed the software on the computer, and it was ready to go. I did the first engraving with it literally in less than half an hour after taking it out of the box.

It is fully enclosed, with large, see-thru plastic panels made of material that shield the user from the laser so you don’t have to wear those stupid safety goggles whenever it’s working. There are safety switches on the door that shuts down the laser immediately if they are opened. There’s even a key lock to let you lock it down in case you have kids or others who like to fiddle with things they shouldn’t.

I already have a fume extraction system set up that is used with soldering, the 3D printer, the old engravers, etc. A big turbine fan with 4 inch ducts that sucks everything up and blows it outside.

And because it’s fully enclosed, with it’s own fume extraction fan, it means you don’t have to buy or build your own enclosure to keep it from setting off every smoke detector in the house. Which it will definitely do because laser = burning. You’re firing a high energy laser beam at wood, plastic, etc. It burns stuff. And burning makes smoke and toxic fumes. A lot of it. So you absolutely, positively must have some kind of vent system to get that stuff out of the house. I have mine connected to a high speed turbine fan with 4″ ducts to pull the smoke and fumes out of the Falcon and blow them outside. Unless you can place the unit directly in front of a window or some kind of vent you can run the included hose through, you’re going to need some kind of powered fume extraction system similar to what I have because the hose it comes with is only about 4 feet long when fully extended and the fan really isn’t powerful enough to push the fumes and smoke out when using it hard for burning through something like 7mm wood.

It has a generous working area, as noted above. It can work with material up to about 15″ X 12″. But at the same time it can do extremely accurate, extremely tiny engravings with no loss of detail as well.

Fourth plus, it’s reasonably fast. Much, much faster than the old Laser Pecker was. Let me give you an example. Here’s a video of the LP at work.

That disk it’s engraving is small, only about an inch and a half across. So yeah, that’s slow. Painfully slow. When I got the LP originally I was fairly new to this and didn’t realize just how slow it was. I know better now.

For comparison, here’s the Falcon A1 at work doing a fairly intricate engraving.

As you can see it is much faster. What it’s engraving up there is more than twice the size of what the LP is doing, and it is much, much more detailed. I didn’t sit down with a stopwatch and time things, but at a guess the Falcon could do three of those very fine, intricate designs in the time it would take the LP to do a relatively low resolution, simple design on that little disk.

It even cuts wood reasonably fast, faster than the old LaserPecker did engraving alone. Here’s another video showing it in action cutting. It just finished the engraving job in the first video up there, 12 key fobs for the brewery, and now it’s cutting them out.

It’s difficult to see because of the tinting of the plastic shield but if you look closely you’ll see clouds of smoke billowing up from underneath the wood.

Pretty slick. That’s not very thick wood, true, that’s only about 1/8″ thick plywood in this case, but it slices through it with no problem at all. Oh, and in case you’re interested, over there on the right is one of the key tags after it came out of the laser, before finishing. I just hang ’em up on some wire in the garage and put a couple of coats of a clear polyurethane. I get 12 of those out of a single sheet of 1/8 inch thick, 12″ x 12″ pre-sanded plywood.

I started wondering just how thick it could go and threw in a piece of white oak scrap 3/8″ thick for the heck of it, and it did that over there on the left. I admit that it struggled a bit to do it. I had to slow the feed rate way down, but it still did it. Most of the time. Depending on the density of the wood I sometimes had to do two passes, but it cut it. I didn’t think a 10W diode laser could do that.

It can’t perform miracles, of course. Wood much thicker than that piece over there on the left is going to be just about impossible to cut no matter how slow you go or how many passes you make.

It can’t engrave metal. No low power, 10W diode laser can do that no matter what the advertisements may claim. It can’t cut even thin metal foil. You can use special coatings to get results like that over there on the left. That’s a stainless steel bottle opener. I did some of those as promotional items for the brewery down in Milwaukee. Yes, it was done with the Falcon, but that’s not engraved. It’s a type of powder coating. A special coating is applied to the steel, then the laser is run over it to melt and fuse the ceramic particles with the steel underneath. It is an extremely tough coating, too. Even scrubbing that with one of those abrasive “Scotch” pads won’t hurt it. It works way better than it has any right to, but it is not “engraving” as such.

The software that comes with it is reasonably decent, but could be much better. It can handle the basics of controlling the laser, but as a design environment it leaves a great deal to be desired. That’s fine for me because I use PhotoShop or Adobe Illustrator for all my design work anyway. You can do simple drawings, text, etc, import images and vector graphics, with the software it comes with, but it’s pretty basic stuff. You’re probably going to want to have an actual, real drawing program, something like Illustrator or something similar, to design/edit your graphics and then import them into the Falcon’s software to do the engraving/cutting.

There is a camera built into the lid of the machine which… Oh, heck, I was going to say it was a gimmick but it can be useful for aligning your drawing with the material you’re using. Sort of. You still want to use the good old fashioned “frame” function to have the laser head physically outline the engraving area before you actually start the engraving to check the alignment because the camera isn’t exactly the most accurate one I’ve ever seen. Even after going through the camera alignment procedure several times, it is still not 100% accurate, especially when close to the edges of the working area. So even when the camera is being used, you’re still going to want to use “frame” to check the alignment before starting a burn.

In order to work efficiently lasers need to be focused. The height of the laser above the item being engraved or cut needs to be set so the maximum amount of energy is delivered to the smallest possible area. As is the case with most of the lower priced laser engravers, this is done on this one by loosening those knurled knobs there on the right and manually raising or lowering the entire laser head up or down. Creality includes a little stepped alumium block specifically to help with the focus. Just lift the head up, lower it down until the nozzle touches the desired step on the block and tighten the knobs. Takes only a few seconds.

Let’s talk about that baseplate for a moment. Some people call it a “crumb tray” and I suppose it is, in a way. It catches bits of whatever it is that you’re cutting. It is also there to protect the table you have the engraver sitting on from the laser, and to help contain smoke and fumes to make it easier to extract them before they get into your house/shop. Even though the base plate is screwed down when it comes from the factory, you’re going to want to remove the 4 screws that hold it down so you can remove the tray easily for cleaning. You’ll also need to remove it and install risers on the base of the machine if you want to use the rotary attachment.

If you take a close look at that base plate or crumb tray, you can’t help but notice how beat up it looks. It’s charred, burned, covered in cooked on carbon and tar from burning wood and is just plain nasty. The reason why is because when cutting wood, that laser beam burns straight through the material and directly impacts that plate. One thing I ding Creality for is not including a honeycomb work platform like the one below with the A1.

If you’re going to be cutting anything with a laser, you absolutely need something like this, or something like this extruded aluminum one below that is what I’ve come to favor more.

Notice the scorch marks, carbon build up and even outright damage that’s already been done to that aluminum grid up there from just a few hours of use with only a 10 watt laser.

And you absolutely need something like this if you’re cutting material with a laser. It helps to prevent flashback that can damage your material, helps with fume/smoke extraction, helps dissipate heat that might cause your material to warp, etc. Especially flashback. This is where the laser burns through the material, hits the underlying surface, and reflects back up to damage the backside of the material you’re working with.

IMO every laser that is capable of cutting material should come with one of these. I’ve come to prefer the extruded aluminum one but the honeycomb version works just as well.

Okay, let’s wrap this review up. You have probably realized that I really like this unit. I’ve been using it and using it hard since I got it. It’s got dozens of hours on it already in just the few weeks I’ve had it, and it’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it.

The good:

  • It come fully assembled, nothing to bolt together. Just unpack it, connect the wires and tube for the air pump and go.
  • It’s simple to operate. Even a novice should be able to get it up and running within an hour or so of unpacking it and setting it up.
  • Build quality is excellent. Fit and finish is superb. It’s made of quality materials and is very sturdy and well designed. No squeaks, no rattles, nothing. Everything was square and level right out of the box.
  • While it’s rated at 10W of power, it works far better than its wattage would indicate. It easily handles cutting dense plywood up to 1/4″ thick and was able to cut through 3/8″ thick solid white oak for heavens sake. I have to slow the feed rate way down, of course, but that it cuts material that thick cleanly is impressive for a 10W laser. Of course the air pump helps enormously with that. It makes a huge difference. But a 10W laser cutting thick wood that easily is still impressive.
  • It is fully enclosed which makes both fume/smoke extraction and eye safety far easier. Safety switches prevent the laser from operating if either of the covers are open, so you don’t have to wear eye protection when it’s in operation.
  • It is reasonably fast, at least as fast as any other laser in its price range.
  • Laser positioning is extremely accurate and the thickness of the kerf (the amount of material actually removed when cutting) is so tiny that finger joints when making boxes were so tight the box up there on the right didn’t need glue to hold it together. This also results in extremely fine engraving lines.
  • It is LightBurn compatible. LightBurn is the software that most professionals use to run laser engravers/cutters. Some makers, for reasons I’ve never understood, try to make their equipment as proprietary as possible, locking you into using their software and their’s alone. I don’t use it myself, the basic functions of the software it comes with are just fine for me and will be for most people. But being compatible with Lightburn is a big plus.
  • So far it has been absolutely rock solid dependable. I got this thing back on April 10. It is now May 23 as I write this and the Falcon has been running 4 – 7 hours a day, almost every day, since I got it, without missing a beat. That’s probably far more usage than it would get from the usual crafter or hobbyist user. It’s been a real work horse so far.

The bad, and yes, there are a few things.

**Last Minute Edit**

I said that there is no manual for the software originally. That’s recently changed. They now have a manual for the software online at: https://wiki.creality.com/en/laser-engraver/software-manual Even better it isn’t actualy horrible. Mostly. It’s at least good enough that you’ll get the basics down before you start using it. You’ll still need to do some experimenting I suspect.

  • The lack of error reporting, either via a display on the unit itself or at least via the software, is troubling. There is basically no way to figure out what’s wrong if something does glitch. About four times now the unit has not responded when trying to engrave something. it just sat there beeping. I have absolutely no idea why. In each case turning it off, waiting a couple of minutes, then turning it back on, cleared whatever the problem was.
  • while I give them credit a built in fan and a vent hose to provide some fume extraction, the fan built into the unit really isn’t strong enough and the provided hose isn’t long enough to do you much good unless you have the unit parked right in front of a window. If you can’t put it in front of a window, you’re going to absolutely need some kind of supplementary fume extraction method to get the smoke and toxic fumes out of your workspace.
  • It absolutely should come with a honeycomb bed for cutting. This is, IMO, an essential item and it should come with one out of the box, it shouldn’t be an extra cost option.
  • Calibrating the camera is a pain in the neck, and requires you to waste an entire 12X12 sheet of wood or cardboard. Even worse, even after following the instructions explicitly multiple times, the camera positioning still is not accurate, especially when you get farther away from the center of the workspace.

Conclusion – I’m sort of nitpicking here with the “con” listing. None of those things are really a deal killer. Creality got a lot right with this thing. The price point and capability of this aims it squarely at people who are at the point where they’ve outgrown the cheap, slow, open frame beginner’s engravers that are really not good for much except for messing around, and who are ready to move up to something that is a serious tool that can do serious work, but who can’t afford or who aren’t ready yet to drop a couple of thousand dollars on a professional level laser. I don’t know how well the Falcon A1 would hold up in a professional production situation, but I’ve been using this thing hard since I got it, working it far harder than the average hobbyist would, and it’s handled everything I’ve thrown at it.

The Usual Disclaimer: I get no financial compensation from Creality or any other company. I purchased the Falcon A1 at full retail price with my own money. I’ve had no contact with the company at all.